Tuesday, December 15, 2009

going coastal




Left the picturesque fishing town of sakcho, heading south and leading me away from me the beautiful snow capped mountains that are north Korea. Can only imagine its frikin freezing there, with the usual shortages of raw materials & erratic utilities that u expect in communist countries. Pity, far better system in theory, if only it ever worked. As a foreigner, you can cross into a no mans land between north and south korea, but you need to bring your passport, and sign paperwork absolving south korea of any liability should military action ensue while you are there. No thank you.

I opted for another coast town, where while it's off season, i still figured it would be a central feature. But just try finding the stuff! U'd think there might be a single sign. After walking for what seems like miles, I cornered someone, who tho they couldn't speak my native tongue, could grasp the childish drawing I made of a land mass waves and a compass, and was able to direct me east. Hopped the next bus heading in that direction and amazingly, it took me where i wanted. Last stop was a small bus depot about as close the water as u can get. Through the small window above the mens room urinals, I could see the waves crashing against the shore with "more intensity" (yes, the dreaded movie reference, referring to the photo shoot scene in lost in translation). The ocean soundtrack only helped the pee run freely, not that this is an issue. Yet. I turn 45 in a a little over a week, so it will be interesting to see which part breaks next.

So this is clearly no swimming beach. The big draw seems to be walking hand in hand with your cherry blossom and coffee drinking is taken very seriously. Vending machines sell dixie cups for about 35 cents are everywhere, and most of the older men can be seen with thesethimble sized containers. Women on the other hand prefer the good stuff, at 10 times the price. apparently, I fall in that category, following the heady aroma of coffee roasting to a place called coffee cupper. None of the fancy artistry in the frothy milk that so many places do now, but its a perfectly adequate latte, allowing me to overlook the really crappy and inconsistent decor.

Interiors are generally not Koreans strong suit. Here and there are some amazing futuristic modern things that dont resemble buildings so much as transformer toys. In general, architecture is hideous. Buildings look like are designed on the back of a paint chip at the hardware supply. Equal parts whatever materials are readily available mixed with a heavy dose of glitzy/tacky. Ionic columns and tinted plate glass windows plus gaudy decorative brass railing. Wood decking is all the rage, even if uve got no reason for it. Stores on the street with no available space in front will install a six inch wide decklet, basically an unnecessary stair. Or face their front with it.


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